leisure: Wadi Rum
Wadi Rum
JEBEL RUM
The mysterious Nabataeans, creators of Petra, also built numerous monuments in Wadi Rum. The Nabataean temple built out of the monolithic mountains of sandstone and granite at the foot of the hill at Jebel Rum is a perfect example that can still be visited today.
Northwest of the temple is a Nabataean settlement including a sophisticated bath house, as well as inscriptions that confirm the pre-Islamic involvement of the Arabic tribes in the construction of the sanctuary.
Ain Ash-Shallaleh, also known as Lawrence's Spring, is just a short walk up the hillside from the Nabataean temple, and one of the mountains was named by Lawrence of Arabia as the Seven Pillars of Wisdom. This also became the inspiration for the title of his famed book.
Other evidence of age old habitation can be found in the Thalmudic, Safaitic, Nabataean, Greek and Arabic graffiti that animates the many cliff faces at Wadi Rum. Keen eyes will be able to make out a rich repertoire of rock art, replete with hunting scenes, which adorn cave walls. There are also rudimentary Stone Age shelters scattered throughout the gorges.
Ideal for: Full-day trip out of Amman
Group size: 10 - 50
Timings: Wadi Rum is three hours drive from Amman so any activity starting from the capital must depart early
Top tip: Always dress modestly when visiting an area inhabited by the Bedouin
CONSERVATION TOURS
The Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN) works on managing access to Wadi Rum to prevent damage to the natural environment by tourism. Working with local inhabitants and authorities, RSCN looks at the best way for visitors to enjoy the beauty of the area, without disrupting the local way of life or the flora and fauna.
Wadi Rum is a protected environment and rare species of animals and plants can be found, including the unique Ibex (mountain goat), as well as the Sand Cat, a close relative of the domestic cat. Wadi Rum is also home to the Camel Spider, feared by the local Bedouin for the harm it can do to camels, but harmless to man. The area is a birdwatcherÕs haven, with vultures, buzzards, and eagles to be seen in a fantastic setting.
RSCN operates the Wadi Rum Reserve, incorporating Rum village. Here, a 4X4 tour can be arranged to Um Fruth Rock Bridge and Burdah Rock Bridge. Along the way, there is a small oasis with palm trees and water, offering an archetypal 'desert oasis' photograph opportunity.
Other excursion ideas include visiting the valleys north of Disi, and a climb up Jebal Saluqi, which offers breathtaking panoramic views, while 10 kilometres south of Wadi Rum are the remains of the Roman fort Khirbet Al-Khalde.
Ideal for: Green meetings
Group size: 10 - 30
Timings: Available all day, but avoid midday heat
Top tip: Book well in advance to secure the best Bedouin tour guides
BEDOUIN LIFE
Today, the desert tribes - Huweitat and Mzanah - inhabit Wadi Rum and welcome visitors with mint tea and cardamom-flavoured coffee in their traditional tents.
The Bedouins of Wadi Rum still practice a semi-nomadic lifestyle, grazing their flocks of sheep and goats for months at a time before packing up their bayt ash-sha'ar (goat’s hair tents or, literally, ‘houses of hair’) and moving on to greener pastures. The traditional owners have resisted the temptation to cash in on the tourist dollar; and so far there are no signs of the usual tourist hotels and boutique stores that mark other visitor destinations.
Incentive visitors can experience Bedouin life at the Wadi Rum Co-operative Society or at the Rest House. There is also a small and popular campsite, where all the camping equipment needed for an unforgettable night under the stars can be hired. The Rest House offers simple Arabic meals and fresh water comes from the local spring.
Ideal for: Overnight experience
Group size: 10 - 30
Timings: Allow two days to experience the many faces of Wadi Rum: by day and by night
Top tip: Temperatures in Wadi Rum vary from an average of 32C in the daytime to a minimum of 1C at night so make sure to pack some warm clothing
TREKKING
Desert trekking on foot and freeclimbing are also popular for the physically fit. Due to the unique complexity of the mountains, some of the climbs are over 1,500 metres in length and pass through rock architecture which is not found anywhere else in the world.
Here, it is possible to explore the narrow canyons cut deep into the mountains, some of which conceal rock drawings created by inhabitants over 2,000 years ago.
Magnificent routes between grade three and five in difficulty are available, with many possibilities for grade six. The numerous canyons or siqs, although known to the Bedouins, are not fully explored and offer excellent opportunities for unusual treks into, and sometimes through, the mountains. Their walls are often decorated with ancient Thalmudic inscriptions and drawings, and Nabataean steps can be found leading into hidden upper recesses.
Ideal for: Active group members
Group size: 10 - 20
Timings: Most treks begin early in the morning to make the most of the good light and cooler temperatures
Top tip: Remember to bring a safety kit in case of any minor injuries
MOUNTAIN BIKING
Wadi Rum is unique to the Middle East, and a complete contrast to much of the Jordanian landscape, making the country a fascinating destination that incorporates widely diverse experiences with relatively short travelling distances.
There are many ways in which to traverse the mountains of sandstone and granite that emerge from the wide sandy wadis, reaching heights of up to 1,700 metres, and mountain biking is perhaps one of the most exhilarating.
A day’s biking tour will commonly take in quiet villages, spectacular terrain, the desolate desert and perhaps even a night pit stop providing memorable star gazing.
Most bike tours will cover an average of 45 kilometres in a day, so this activity requires a certain level of fitness. The routes generally follow quiet back roads, with some tarmac, and lots of downhill and level sections.
Ideal for: Experienced cyclists and active group members
Group size: 10 - 20
Timings: Most trips will start early to make the most of cooler temperatures
Top tip: Always remember to ask permission before taking photographs of the local Bedouin people
BALLOON TRIPS
One of the most exciting ways to view Wadi Rum is via a spectacular balloon flight. Balloon trips are limited to certain times of the year and times of day, due to warm up-currents (thermals) from the canyon gorges. The main flying seasons are April to June and September to December.
Balloons carry eight paying passengers and wind conditions enable only morning flights, three hours after sunrise when the winds are gentlest. As a result, passengers must arrive at daybreak, which is also one of the most vibrant times to view the landscape.
Once back on the ground many tour operators will also organise a breakfast, using the balloon basket as a make shift table.
Ideal for: Ideal for small groups or incentive rewards
Group size: 1 - 8
Timings: Early morning
Top tip: Wear something warm, as both the morning air and the air at altitude are cool
